Verona

Verona is Veneto's famous city as the setting for Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet.

Verona was a Roman city, and many Roman ruins have been preserved, notably the Arena. Most of the historical sights to see today date from the past 800 years. Verona offers a golden opportunity to see the transition of Western European art from late medieval to early renaissance styles, with its rich offering of 12th Century churches and art museums. Verona's military importance has also left city fortifications and an excellent castle. Look out for architectural details related to the Scaligeri (or della Scala) family, who ruled the city from the 12th-14th Century - their family emblem is a ladder, and appears in many places around the city.

To see

The Arena, [5]. An enormous, spectacular Roman amphitheatre, crumbling on the outside but still functioning today. It was erected in the 1st Century AD in an elliptical shape, and is the world's third-largest amphitheatre to survive from antiquity. Much of the outer ring was damaged during the earthquake of 1117 but the inner part is still intact. If you can, plan your trip during the Opera season and see a performance in the Arena. Ouside the opera season you can visit it during the day.

Juliet's House (Casa di Giulietta), Via Cappello, just off the Piazza delle Erbe. Supposedly the location of the famous balcony love scene from Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. The house is a major destination for tourist pilgrimage, as the tiny courtyard is normally packed with lovestruck teenagers photographing each other on the famous balcony. In fact, the house has no connection with Shakespeare's fictional characters - although the house is old, the balcony was added in 1936 and declared to be "Juliet's house" to attract tourists. You can visit the house itself (€4 entry) - it contains a sparse collection of Renaissance frescos rescued from other demolished palaces, and the bed from Zeffirelli's 1968 movie, but not a lot more.

The balcony overlooks a tiny courtyard containing a statue of Juliet. There is an unbelievable amount of graffiti and general scrawling on the walls, floor, seats, anything that will hold ink - there is a tradition of writing love messages to Juliet, and visitors leave notes, trinkets and bits of chewing gum fashioned into love hearts. Juliet's house is a popular romantic shrine, but its popularity belies its value; compared to some of the treasures around Verona, Juliet's house has very little to offer.

Climb to the top of the Lamberti tower (or take the lift if you are unable). Great views out over Verona.

Castel San Pietro, with nice views on the city.

Giardino Giusti. One of Italy's most important renaissance/mannerist gardens, with grottos, fire-breathing masks carved into the hillside etc.

Gastronomy

The Veronese are keen eaters of horse-meat (cavallo), a local speciality. Pastisada de caval, is a dish of braised horse meat, as is Picula de Caval.

Osteria Pigna, Via Pigna 4/b tel: 045 800 4080.Great restaurant with a truly authentic feel. Not far from the Duomo this restaurant offers an excellent service and it is recognized as a great place to eat by the locals. They have a choice of 6 day menus dishes ranging from 10-12 EUR wine, water and coffee included. The food is excellent and service impeccable. You will be truly delighted by the quality of the food and the friendly staff.

Al' Duomo, Via Duomo 7, tel: 045 800 4505. Excellent family-run restaurant, just next to the Cathedral ((as its name suggests). It's popular with the local Veronese (a good sign) and with a menu full of traditional local specialities. You'll find this is a good place to blend in with the local scene, and has welcoming staff who will help you with unfamiliar items on the menu. On Wednesdays, Al' Duomo plays host to a local mandolin ensemble, so if you're on a traditional music tour, put this on your list. As it's a popular place, booking is advised. Menus are not overpriced, so for about €15-20 a head (plus wine) you'll come away glowing with gastronomic satisfaction.